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Truss rod slot

Jan 03,  · So now that I have this nifty new truss rod slot I guess it's time to fit the rod. A few weeks back I bought a a long piece of maple at my local hardwoods CRAIGFAM.INFO: Rose. Neck Construction Tips and Techniques An overview of neck construction, includes tips for adding headstock "ears," routing for a truss . The second design is a double rod made of two steel shafts welded together at one end. A long threaded nut at the other end provides adjustment and focuses the truss action away from the unmovable heel joint.

Hot Rod Adjustable Truss Rods

Views Read Edit View history. I flattened the edge with a bench grinder. Tom 5 Comments. Leave a Reply Click here to cancel reply. As with any truss rod, if you encounter excessive resistance, the neck should first be eased into a corrective bend with clamps.

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Neck Construction Tips and Techniques

If you look at the washer you will notice that the top edge has been flattened. I flattened the edge with a bench grinder. The other end of the truss rod must be anchored under the 21st fret.

To accomplish this you must first trim the rod to the proper length and then use a tap on the end of the rod to cut the threads. When the threads are cut you can thread the anchor onto the rod. When the anchor is threaded as far as it can go you use a hammer to peen the excess rod up against the anchor so it will not turn. The proper tool for peening is a ball-peen hammer but I didn't have one. Instead my dad had this old hammer that worked about the same. When the anchor is securely fitted to the rod you need to cut a slot for it in the neck.

For this I used a forstner bit on the drill press. I can't remember what size I used but it fit the anchor perfectly. I've seen some builds where the luthier mounted the anchor horizontal instead of vertical using a Dremel to hog out the necessary wood for the anchor slot.

I'm not yet good with a Dremel although I need to practice to do the inlays on the fretboard so I chose to use the forstner bit and mount the anchor vertically. The anchor stuck up a tad so I used the bench grinder to whittle down one end a bit. Back to the maple filet. I used the bandsaw to cut the curve on the filet and then smoothed it by hand sanding.

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This is a two-way adjustment rod so you can correct both up bow and down bow situations, which is a real blessing when you need it. The installation of their system is extremely simple and adjusting the neck is much easier.

For Acoustic Guitars, these adjustment rods especially the hex head variety, can be installed at either end of the fretboard. The first location, at the peghead side of the guitar, will require a truss rod cover to be installed on the peghead to cover the access slot for the hexhead nut. If you decide to install the adjustment nut at the head block of the guitar, you will need to plan on routing the slot not only through the neck, but continue it completely through the head block. You will need easy access to the nut from the inside of the guitar, so this usually calls for an access hole to be drilled in the transverse brace that runs in front of the sound hole.

I prefer this location because it keeps the peghead neat and clean without that extra cover plate screwed to the peghead. These truss rods come in a variety of lengths. Also note that the truss rod is not designed to actually run into the guitar body at all. This permits removal of the neck without conflict from the truss rod.

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If you have shaped your neck already, you will have to use a router to do this. It is preferable to cut this slot with the table saw right after the neck scarf joint has been completed and the neck is still formless and before the headpiece veneer in installed.

You will also need to provide access for the adjustment nut as it is a bit larger than the trussrod itself. The recess can be made with a piloted drill bit, or by clamping a hardwood filler strip into the slot, and drilling as though there is no slot. Note all of our Acoustic Guitar Plans show details of installation of the truss rod with the adjustment within the head block. Now that you have cut the truss rod slots and made provisions for the nut access, feel free to go ahead and finish shaping your neck and doing your neck prep work, such as fitting the neck, final peghead shaping,etc.

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